Saturday, December 31, 2011

Mongolia | Second of the Nine Nines | Khorz Arkhi Khöldönö | Sogdians

I mentioned earlier that the First of the Nine-Nines—the Nine-Nines being nine periods of nine days each, each period characterized by a certain type of winter weather—started on the day of the Winter Solstice, which occurred here in Mongolia on December 22. The Second of the Nine Nines began yesterday, December 31. Known as Khorz Arkhi Khöldönö, this is the time when twice-distilled homemade Mongolian arkhi (vodka) freezes. As you will recall, the first of the Nine-Nines was the time when regular, or once distilled, arkhi freezes. As this indicates, the second period should be colder than the first, since twice distilled arkhi obviously has a much higher alcohol content. This morning at 6:30, however, it was a balmy 1º above 0 F. (-17º C.) Expect colder weather by the end of the week. 

As some of you may know, today is also the first day of the year according to the admittedly outdated and outmoded Gregorian calendar which unfortunately seems to hold much of the world in its thrall. I have been boycotting the Gregorian calendar for several years now (I prefer the Lunar Calendar myself), so as usual I did not do any celebrating last night. If you expected to find me carousing in any of  Ulaanbaatar’s notoriously Louche Coffee Shops you would have been sorely disappointed.  Instead, I spent the evening in my hovel reading Sogdian Traders: A History.

Sogdian Merchants from Penjikent in current-day western Tajikistan
A Willow-Limbed Sogdian Beauty from Penjikent in current-day western Tajikistan

Mongolia | Second of the Nine Nines | Khorz Arkhi Khöldönö | Sogdians

I mentioned earlier that the First of the Nine-Nines—the Nine-Nines being nine periods of nine days each, each period characterized by a certain type of winter weather—started on the day of the Winter Solstice, which occurred here in Mongolia on December 22. The Second of the Nine Nines began yesterday, December 31. Known as Khorz Arkhi Khöldönö, this is the time when twice-distilled homemade Mongolian arkhi (vodka) freezes. As you will recall, the first of the Nine-Nines was the time when regular, or once distilled, arkhi freezes. As this indicates, the second period should be colder than the first, since twice distilled arkhi obviously has a much higher alcohol content. This morning at 6:30, however, it was a balmy 1º above 0 F. (-17º C.) Expect colder weather by the end of the week. 


As some of you may know, today is also the first day of the year according to the admittedly outdated and outmoded Gregorian calendar which unfortunately seems to hold much of the world in its thrall. I have been boycotting the Gregorian calendar for several years now (I prefer the Lunar Calendar myself), so as usual I did not do any celebrating last night. If you expected to find me carousing in any of  Ulaanbaatar’s notoriously Louche Coffee Shops you would have been sorely disappointed.  Instead, I spent the evening in my hovel reading Sogdian Traders: A History.


Sogdian Merchants from Penjikent in current-day western Tajikistan
A Willow-Limbed Sogdian Beauty from Penjikent in current-day western Tajikistan

Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Mongolia | Winter Solstice | Ist Nine-Nine | Nermel Arkhi Khöldönö

Well, it is that time of the year again! Get that Elk Antler Headdress out of the attic and shake the corn starch off your tambourines! The Winter Solstice occurs today at 1:30 p.m. (Ulaanbaatar Time), marking the beginning of Winter. See Winter Solstice 2010 at Stonehenge, the granddaddy of all Solstice celebration sites.

Here in Zaisan Tolgoi the sun rises at 8:39 and sets at 5:02 for a day of 8 hours, 22 minutes, and 54 seconds, the shortest day of the year of course. Tomorrow the day will be two seconds longer, which means we have turned the corner and are on the way to the Spring Equinox on March 20, 2012. My house plants have been slumping, and I can only hope that they will sense the turn of the seasons and perk up, since moping house plants are a little more than I can deal with right now.

In Mongolia the Winter Solstice also marks the beginning of the so-called Nine-Nines: nine periods of nine days each, each period marked by some description of winter weather. The first of the nine nine-Day periods is Nermel Arkhi Khöldönö, the time when normally distilled homemade Mongolian arkhi (vodka) freezes. It was minus 22º F. at 6:30 this morning, ten degrees or so warmer than three or four previous mornings, but still cold enough, I think, to freeze first-water Mongolian moonshine, which is not as strong as store-bought vodka. The next Nine-Day Period starts on December 31. Stayed tuned for updates.

Mongolia | Winter Solstice | Ist Nine-Nine | Nermel Arkhi Khöldönö




Well, it is that time of the year again! Get that Elk Antler Headdress out of the attic and shake the corn starch off your tambourines! The Winter Solstice occurs today at 1:30 p.m. (Ulaanbaatar Time), marking the beginning of Winter. See Winter Solstice 2010 at Stonehenge, the granddaddy of all Solstice celebration sites.



Here in Zaisan Tolgoi the sun rises at 8:39 and sets at 5:02 for a day of 8 hours, 22 minutes, and 54 seconds, the shortest day of the year of course. Tomorrow the day will be two seconds longer, which means we have turned the corner and are on the way to the Spring Equinox on March 20, 2012. My house plants have been slumping, and I can only hope that they will sense the turn of the seasons and perk up, since moping house plants are a little more than I can deal with right now.



In Mongolia the Winter Solstice also marks the beginning of the so-called Nine-Nines: nine periods of nine days each, each period marked by some description of winter weather. The first of the nine nine-Day periods is Nermel Arkhi Khöldönö, the time when normally distilled homemade Mongolian arkhi (vodka) freezes. It was minus 22º F. at 6:30 this morning, ten degrees or so warmer than three or four previous mornings, but still cold enough, I think, to freeze first-water Mongolian moonshine, which is not as strong as store-bought vodka. The next Nine-Day Period starts on December 31. Stayed tuned for updates.

Sunday, December 18, 2011

Mongolia | Töv Aimag | Aryaval Khiid

Bayantsagaan
Wandered by the crib of Bayantsagaan, head of Lam Rim Khiid near Gandan. He had called and asked me to stop and discuss a book he was writing. He does not speak much English and of course my Mongolian is limited, but we usually manage to get by without a translator. Indeed, we had no problem discussing the publishing project he had in mind. But then he started talking about Aryaval Khiid, another temple in Terelj National Park north of Ulaanbaatar which he himself had founded. He could not seem to get his point across, so he got out his mobile phone, a new smart phone the brand of which I did not notice (I am not a mobile phone freak) and made a video-call to his daughter in the United States. Holding the phone in front of us, we had her translate while we watched her on the screen. So, I thought, this is the world we live in; we are sitting in Mongolia and making a video call to the United States to have someone translate for us. His daughter, Erdenetsetseg, is currently in Las Vegas. What is the daughter of a lama who is also a noted author, artist, sculptor, and founder of temples doing in Las Vegas? Let’s just say the apple did not fall close to the tree. 
 Erdenetsetseg (her name means “Glorious Flower”)
What Bayantsagaan wanted to tell me was that he had made various additions to Aryaval Khiid over the past summer.  I have made innumerable visits to Aryaval Khiid over the years (also see Here and Here, and also the  Aryaval Temple Brochure I made) and even have photos of the temple in various phases of its construction. So he was wondering if I would go out and document the latest features. These included a paved walkway from the parking lot to the temple which is lined with placards and four new rock carvings on the cliffs above with temple which Bayantsagaan himself had done. 

It was a chilly 35º degrees below 0 F (–37º C.) at 8:30 a.m. on the morning we went to the temple. Although the place is usually jammed with tourists, pilgrims, and local day-trippers in the summertime we were not surprisingly the only people there on this frigid day. 
New walkway from the parking lot to the temple
Sarantuya, who kindly agreed to drive me to Aryaval Khiid, by one of the signs
Rock Carving of the White Grandfather Buddhist Teacher, a common motif in Mongolian Buddhism
Detail of the White Grandfather 
Another change since I was at Aryaval last is that several of the already existing rock carvings have been painted.
Newly-painted Buddha Rock Carving 
Buddha Rock Carving in summertime before it was painted. (Don’t tell anyone, but I think it looked better unpainted.)
Detail of Buddha Rock Carving
Sarantuya offering a khadag at the Buddha rock carving in more salubrious weather
Sign on the path to the temple: “It is hardly likely that one could easily follow the highest path of the Buddha when it is so difficult to follow just an ordinary path in this degenerate age.” 
Another sign on the path to the temple
Bridge leading to the Aryaval Temple
Bridge leading to Aryaval Temple. The sign says, “The Bridge to Deliver You Beyond Wisdom.”
Aryaval Khiid
The new rock carvings by Bayantsagaan on the cliffs above the temple turned out to be mostly covred with snow, so I could not get good photos.
The four new stone carvings by Bayantsagaan can barely be made out in this photo
Three of the stone carvings can be seen here
A slightly better view of one of the stone carvings
These carvings—the Power of Ten Symbol and the Om Mani Padme Hum mantra have been here for awhile, but have recently been painted.
As soon as the snow is gone—either blown off or melted—I will return to Aryaval and get better photos of the new carvings. But don’t hold your breath.

Mongolia | Töv Aimag | Aryaval Khiid




Bayantsagaan


Wandered by the crib of Bayantsagaan, head of Lam Rim Khiid near Gandan. He had called and asked me to stop and discuss a book he was writing. He does not speak much English and of course my Mongolian is limited, but we usually manage to get by without a translator. Indeed, we had no problem discussing the publishing project he had in mind. But then he started talking about Aryaval Khiid, another temple in Terelj National Park north of Ulaanbaatar which he himself had founded. He could not seem to get his point across, so he got out his mobile phone, a new smart phone the brand of which I did not notice (I am not a mobile phone freak) and made a video-call to his daughter in the United States. Holding the phone in front of us, we had her translate while we watched her on the screen. So, I thought, this is the world we live in; we are sitting in Mongolia and making a video call to the United States to have someone translate for us. His daughter, Erdenetsetseg, is currently in Las Vegas. What is the daughter of a lama who is also a noted author, artist, sculptor, and founder of temples doing in Las Vegas? Let’s just say the apple did not fall close to the tree. 




 Erdenetsetseg (her name means “Glorious Flower”)


What Bayantsagaan wanted to tell me was that he had made various additions to Aryaval Khiid over the past summer.  I have made innumerable visits to Aryaval Khiid over the years (also see Here and Here, and also the  Aryaval Temple Brochure I made) and even have photos of the temple in various phases of its construction. So he was wondering if I would go out and document the latest features. These included a paved walkway from the parking lot to the temple which is lined with placards and four new rock carvings on the cliffs above with temple which Bayantsagaan himself had done. 





It was a chilly 35º degrees below 0 F (–37º C.) at 8:30 a.m. on the morning we went to the temple. Although the place is usually jammed with tourists, pilgrims, and local day-trippers in the summertime we were not surprisingly the only people there on this frigid day. 




New walkway from the parking lot to the temple




Sarantuya, who kindly agreed to drive me to Aryaval Khiid, by one of the signs




Rock Carving of the White Grandfather Buddhist Teacher, a common motif in Mongolian Buddhism




Detail of the White Grandfather 

Another change since I was at Aryaval last is that several of the already existing rock carvings have been painted.




Newly-painted Buddha Rock Carving 





Buddha Rock Carving in summertime before it was painted. (Don’t tell anyone, but I think it looked better unpainted.)





Detail of Buddha Rock Carving




Sarantuya offering a khadag at the Buddha rock carving in more salubrious weather




Sign on the path to the temple: “It is hardly likely that one could easily follow the highest path of the Buddha when it is so difficult to follow just an ordinary path in this degenerate age.” 




Another sign on the path to the temple




Bridge leading to the Aryaval Temple




Bridge leading to Aryaval Temple. The sign says, “The Bridge to Deliver You Beyond Wisdom.”




Aryaval Khiid

The new rock carvings by Bayantsagaan on the cliffs above the temple turned out to be mostly covred with snow, so I could not get good photos.




The four new stone carvings by Bayantsagaan can barely be made out in this photo




Three of the stone carvings can be seen here




A slightly better view of one of the stone carvings




These carvings—the Power of Ten Symbol and the Om Mani Padme Hum mantra have been here for awhile, but have recently been painted.

As soon as the snow is gone—either blown off or melted—I will return to Aryaval and get better photos of the new carvings. But don’t hold your breath.


Monday, December 5, 2011

Uzbekistan | Bukhara | Naqshbandi’s Tomb

Baha-ud-Din Naqband  Bukhari, right
Today, the 10th of December according to the increasing irrelevant Gregorian calendar, is the 14th day of the month of Muharram, according to the Islamic Lunar Calendar. (It is also the day of the Full Moon, an auspicious day according to the Mongolian Lunar Calendar.) As most of you probably know, this is the birthday of Baha-ud-Din Naqshband Bukhari (1318–1389), the founder of what would become the Naqshbandi sect of Sufis. During a recent sojourn in Uzbekistan I wandered by his tomb, located in the village Kasri Arifon eight or so miles from Bukhara
Entrance to the Mausoleum of Baqshbandi
Tomb of Baqshbandi
Tomb of Baqshbandi
Tomb of Baqshbandi
Monument in the Mausoleum Complex
Uzbekistan Roses in all their resplendent glory just outside the Mausoleum Complex

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